The 1996-2004 Honda xr250r

Read on to find out if the XR250R could be the bike for you in 2024.

Note: The XR models ending with an “R” suffix were the offroad machines; the “L” suffix denotes a street-legal model.

Where Does the XR250 Fit Into the Market?

In today’s market, the XR falls somewhere between trail bikes and enduro bikes in competency: its rider position, handling, power, and technology are all decidedly trail-oriented, but its robust design makes it slightly more suited to the rigors of a race course than today’s entry-level trail bikes.

But in its era, it was perfectly acceptable to see the XR used as both an entry-level learner mount and as a competitive racer. The market offered essentially three options for woods riders in the 1990’s: a modified motocross bike, a two-stroke trail bike like the EXC250 or KDX200, or the lone four-stroke trail bike, the Honda XR.

None of the trail bikes were designed explicitly for racing; rather, they were offered stock with soft suspensions and manageable power to appeal to the masses. Woods racers at the time were left having to either soften a motocross machine for the woods use or upgrade a trail bike. As such, the XR was considered a perfectly suitable racer back in its day, but the modern technological and market class equivalent of the XR—the CRF250F—would be a desperate choice for a race bike. There are simply better options on the market today.

How Do They Handle?

The XR is most at home chugging over roots and winding through the trees, where the comparatively short wheelbase (55.1”) and soft suspension shine. The engine is torquey and makes its power in the low-to-mid rpm range, making it easy to ride (no high-revving and clutching necessary). One of the XR’s greatest attributes is its resistance to stalling: even locking the rear wheel is usually not enough to stop the engine.

Although it’s often regarded as something of a pig, the XR—at 260lbs wet—is similar in weight to that of the modern offerings (the 2024 CRF250F weights 265lbs). However, the 1980’s-based design of the XR positioned the gas tank high relative to the seat, and the bike’s overall weight distribution makes it feel top-heavy compared to newer machines. After getting acclimated to the bike, though, a rider will adapt to the old-school ergonomics and can throw the XR around with confidence.

Where the XR starts to suffer is on high-speed trails, where the short wheelbase results in twitchy handling, and the high forces quickly overwhelm the soft suspension. For an ambitious racer, a suspension re-valve/re-spring and USD fork conversion would be imperative. Further, an aggressive rider will find the power of the low-revving 250cc powerplant underwhelming. However, 280 and 300cc big bore kits (XRs Only Piston Kit) are available still in 2024.

The XR is a bike that CAN do everything, but it’s not a superstar at anything.

How Do They Compare to New Machines?

As an alternative to a modern trail bike like a CRF230F/250F, the XR is similarly capable and has similar power delivery, but it is heftier and less-compact than the modern variants. The modern tail bikes have slightly more aggressive ergonomics and styling, and the addition of electric start and fuel injection is a big selling point. But for a minimalist or a budget-limited rider looking for a ticket to the trails, the XR250R can deliver.

For riders considering the XR as a woods racing mount, the modern alternatives (CRF250X, CRF250RX) are markedly different in everything from power characteristics to ergonomics. The modern bikes like to rev and require more finesse with the clutch at low RPM, their weight distribution is biased for a lower center of gravity, and their ergonomics are tailored more for the standing attack position than for a seated trail ride. That said, with some power and suspension upgrades, an XR can be made good enough to race for a casual competitor. For a serious racer, the lack of electric start presents a big disadvantage in a dead-engine race start format, and the low-revving XR produces only 60-80% of the power of the peppier modern machines. However, the sixth gear on the XR can give it a fighting chance in a drag race.

The XR has front and rear disc brakes and uses the same calipers that later came on the CRF models, but braking power on a 20+ year old bike will likely be down compared to more modern bikes due to age and mechanical wear of the braking system components. Flushing the hydraulic fluid, upgrading to braided stainless steel brake lines, and replacing the brake pads can restore the braking effectiveness.

How Do They Stack Up Against Other Bikes From Their Day?

Contrary to what Honda’s marketing team claimed, the four-stroke XR was never able to keep up with the two-stroke woods bikes of the time, including the KDX200/220 and RMX250.

However, when stacked up against the other four-stroke trail bikes like the TT-R250, DR-Z250, and KLX250 that came along to compete with it, the XR is generally considered the lowest-tech but most reliable. Both the TT-R and the DR-Z came with electric start. The XR was the longest running model of the class and has the largest aftermarket support.

How Much Do They Cost?

XRs are cherished by their fan base, and one in excellent condition can fetch up to $3500. On the other end of the spectrum, a ragged out bike can be found for less than $1000. Buyer beware.

What Should You Look Out for When Shopping?

As with most discontinued dirt bike models, the outdated technology and design aren’t the biggest issues—finding a bike in good condition is. With a friendly price-point and a reputation for being indestructible, many XRs were used and abused. Any machine can be made unreliable with sufficient inattention to maintenance, and the XR is no exception.

The XR is fairly simple from a mechanical standpoint, and mechanically-inclined (or mechanically-interested) buyers with limited budgets might opt to buy a worn out machine to restore. But be conscious of your repair budget: engine rebuilds, frame repairs, suspension upgrades, and replacing wear items (sprockets, chain, bearings, tires, air filter, brake rotors and pads) can total thousands of dollars. Often, spending another $500-1000 to buy a bike in better condition can save you $1000-2000 of repair costs (parts only, not labor!) that could be required before you can even ride the bike.

Specific things to check for on the XR before buying include:

• Rust on the lower part of the frame near the footpegs/kickstand. Water getting trapped in the frame rails leads to rust where it settles in this lower part of the frame. (Drilling drain holes is common practice.) The rust can present as small holes that may have been painted over, so look carefully. A rusty frame can be repaired with either small patches or sections cut out of a donor frame if you are willing to do some welding. Left unchecked, this rust can lead to footpeg separation or frame failure, so avoid a rusty frame unless you are willing to repair it.


• Cylinder head cracking between the spark plug and the valve seat due to overheating or oil starvation from a blocked oil line.

If you find any major issues that were not already reported by the seller, consider your ability and willingness to address them. If you’re up for the challenge, use the problems you identified as leverage to negotiate a lower price.

How's the Spare Parts Availability?

Like any discontinued and aging model, finding spare parts can be a hassle. However, compared to other models of the same vintage, the XR250R has comparatively strong parts availability. www.xrsonly.com carries a wide range of parts, and Ebay is still well saturated with used parts off of donor machines. Finding spare parts might require some research into cross-compatibility and is best handled by a patient shopper.

Twenty years after their production run ended, the XR is still fondly remembered by many. Although they may not be the most competitive or high-tech machine, they will turns heads wherever they go, and riding an XR will make you a minor celebrity.